[cameraclicker]

The text at the link you provided:

Famous photographer Paul Galesko wants to kill his wealthy but annoying wife

I think the “wealthy but annoying wife” probably explains where the mansion and car came from.

[cameraclicker]

What really gets me is the photographer that produces images that are worthy of being on the cover of Vogue but doesn’t take the time (either themselves or someone who might have an expert command of the language) to ensure their online presence is worthy of the calibre as the images they may have on the same page! Therein lies the danger—this to me is the epitome of the photographer who’s simply in it for the money and not for the love of their craft.

I wonder if that’s true.  I think it may be the other way around.  That is, the one who takes Vogue worthy photos but has, beyond the photos, poor marketing materials, may be doing it for the imagery.  The converse, someone who has brilliant marketing materials but has trouble taking a good photo, may be the one who is in it for the money.  There is a third group, one with many constituents that appear featured on this site; they exhibit difficulty taking and/or processing photos, and their marketing materials are full of errors.   I suspect they are in it for the money, too.

[cameraclicker]

You could do it fairly easily.  You could enlist the help of a local metal fabricator to get an ‘L’ shaped bracket to fit a harness like the one here:  http://katok9gear.mybigcommerce.com/atilla-leather-dog-harness/   Then you could use the tripod mount on your 7D Mk II, to mount the camera to the bracket.

Put a 50 mm f/1.8 lens on it, set it to auto focus.  Set the 7D to ‘P’ mode.  In the menus, choose Interval Timer under the fourth square of the left camera icon.  Set it enabled, set a suitable interval time, perhaps a minute or two, then set the number of shots to 99.  Mount the camera on the dog, depress the shutter release all the way and let the dog go.

Turning off the camera will stop interval exposures if the dog comes back before the camera gets through the 99 shots.

[cameraclicker]

Obvious spelling and grammar errors bug me too!

I suppose it is about knowing your customers.  If the customer has poor language skills and can’t tell the difference between a poor photo and a good one, then almost any photographer will be fine, and price is a determining factor.   If the customer can see the difference and has a healthy budget, price is less of a factor and the photographer’s work, photos, web page, printed material and personality, all become more important.  As a practical matter, if you are hiring a photographer, the photos are the product.  While we may laugh, or cringe, at bad grammar, customers may be completely satisfied if the photos are excellent.

 

[cameraclicker]

Voila, now all is well! Beautiful and well done, Tara!

Doesn’t sound like he is blasting Tara!  The rest sounds a bit like a Canon Fan Boy on heavy duty stimulants.  I thought it was funny.

Anyway, like the others I think the photos show pretty good effort.  In a couple Bill identified, I’m not sure slow shutter speed is the problem as much as too shallow depth of field.  He is certainly correct, however, that slow shutter speed will cause problems with motion blur if either camera or subject is moving.  Image Stabilization, Vibration Reduction, or whatever else the manufacturer names their system, will only help with camera movement.  Subject movement will still blur if the shutter speed is too slow.  And, you have been shooting with pretty slow shutter speeds!

You may be working too hard.  Manual is a good mode for learning because you avoid the computer making subtle (or not so subtle) changes which affect the image but may be incomprehensible without all the information the computer was using.  The other modes can produce equally good, sometimes better, results most of the time.  Under computer assistance you can dial in the parameters you care about and let the computer adjust the rest the instant the shutter is released.  This works well when you are in an environment where you don’t have total control of the light, and light is changing.

DSC_0142 may have a problem, or two.  It depends.  Were you taking the coaster, or the people?  It is a pretty fair shot if it is supposed to be showing the construction of the coaster.  Not so much if you are taking a picture of a friend riding the coaster.  It looks like you may have been trying out “Rule of Thirds” but while the cars are near the left thirds line, the eye is drawn to the bright sky at upper right, and there are lots of better photos of sky.   It’s a difficult camera only photo because of the various elements.  The people are in shade, if you meter on the people, the sky blows out.  If you meter the whole scene, the people are too dark.  If you use a flash, you need one in the hot shoe because the little pop-up is not strong enough, and the other elements — trees and coaster track — will reflect the flash back more strongly  than the people since they are further away.  This is a shot that can benefit from post processing.  Shoot it as a raw file to give maximum flexibility, then with a raw editor, brighten the people and the darkest parts of the track support structure.  Possibly darken the sky slightly too.  You can do this with a JPEG photo but you don’t get as much wiggle room once most of the data has been tossed to make the JPEG.  Also, editing in 16 bits gives better transitions than you get doing it with 8 bits.

I really like DSC_0118.  You can see the people.  The double loop in the coaster shows, along with lots of other track convolutions to give the viewer an idea of what the riders are experiencing.

[cameraclicker]

Please tell me you guys feel the same?

Sorry, I’m not seeing the problem.  That may be because although I have an account there, my investment is the same as at this site.  Or, it could be that I go there so frequently that each time I have to take a moment and figure out their new layout.  Also, on logging in  and looking around, I discovered I look at Popular and Fresh when I am there.  I don’t think I have bothered with Editor’s Choice, so I don’t really care what they put there.

As the others have pointed out, already, that sort of behaviour is pretty common.  Have you looked at the political system of almost any country?

[cameraclicker]

This might help with PS.

[cameraclicker]

Ouch!

Beyond different software, have you looked into other control tools?  Tablets, trackballs, etc.

[cameraclicker]

Sorry, can’t help.  I just use the tools in Photoshop.  The Refine Selection tool works fine for my limited needs.

[cameraclicker]

Yeah!  More spam.

[cameraclicker]

raccoon eyes, in focus backdrop wrinkles, girl on train tracks.  The wedding suits are black shapes with no detail.

Lots of experience only equates to good photos if you learn from the experience.

[cameraclicker]

I don’t imagine a lot of photographers would put in their CV “I know how to use Canon 5D Mark III”

Perhaps they have the 1Ds Mk III?

How long does it take to change from Nikon to Canon, or from one body to another more generally?  Long enough to read some of the manual and shoot a couple of hundred frames to test features and get used to button placement.  An afternoon, give or take.

[cameraclicker]

I like the light in this one:

This one’s sweet & funny:

That white horse has personality! There are several good shots of it.

Try to avoid signs and other printing unless the sign is the point of the shot:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/125237868@N03/17822451726/in/photostream/
When you shoot flowers, unless decay is the topic, try to pick good looking specimens. Clean up any minor flaws with an editor, or shoot flowers that have just bloomed and are perfect:

If you use the Save To Web option, EXIF data is stripped. EXIF data tells us what camera, lens, and settings were used. Knowing that can sometimes be helpful when suggesting changes.

Camera guy worked as a near silhouette. Any darker and the camera would be difficult to discern. On the other hand, if you popped a flash, you could light the camera and person while keeping the background light, which might be a better option if seeing the person is important. Even in many of your outdoor-daylight shots, a flash would help.

The swan and cormorants shots are OK. The swan’s head and neck may be a bit dark compared to the back which is perhaps too bright. The cormorants shot is pretty busy. Low power flash might have added catch lights, which would help.

Keep shooting, keep trying different things and learning. Your photography is coming along nicely.

[cameraclicker]

LOL! Thanks for a good laugh!

[cameraclicker]

Lemonadestandphotography.com has some nice shots. Curiously, they are using edited, gathered photos to build their “What to wear” images.
Don’t know if the links will work properly, this one goes to a Pinterest page with several plaid shirts, and there the plaid shirt image has a head! https://www.pinterest.com/claremariem/plaid-shirts/

The polka-dot dress appears in a Downtown Calgary page: http://www.getdown.ca/2012/11/05/what-to-wear-holiday-shopping-downtown/ But, it is probably from classicwhynot.com.br –> http://www.classicwhynot.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/0f1c387c30bab39ec00a9307c6a62344.jpg

The baby dress covered in yellow rabbit images got over 10 pages worth of hits! I have no idea where it came from, but Gap gets the credit on a number of pages. http://www.stilettotwins.com/2013/01/lookbook-babygap-peter-rabbit-collection.html

The red number with white dots is here: http://cdn2.kidsfashionpassion.com/wp-content/gallery/2013-kg-left-bank/cn5723751-299982.jpg , and here: http://trendy-mom.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Screen-Shot-2013-02-16-at-9.24.00-PM.png

So the text may be original, and some work may have gone into the selection, but the photography is probably the work of catalogue photographers working for retailers or manufacturers.

[Author]

Posts