[cameraclicker]

This is an excerpt from 500px terms:
“The license granted to 500px includes the right to use your Content fully or partially for promotional reasons and to distribute and redistribute your Content to other parties, web-sites, applications, and other entities, provided such Content is attributed to you in accordance with the credits (i.e. username, profile picture, photo title, descriptions, tags, and other accompanying information) if any and as appropriate, all as submitted to 500px by you; ”

and:

“You represent and warrant that:

You are the owner of all rights, including all copy rights in and to all Content you submit to the site;
You have the full and complete right to enter into this agreement and to grant to 500px the rights in the Content herein granted, and that no further permissions are required from, nor payments required to be made to any other person in connection with the use by 500px of the Content as contemplated herein; and
The Content does not defame any person and does not infringe upon the copyright, moral rights, publicity rights, privacy rights or any other right of any person, or violate any law or judicial or governmental order.

You shall not have any right to terminate the permissions granted herein, nor to seek, obtain, or enforce any injunctive or other equitable relief against 500px, all of which such rights are hereby expressly and irrevocably waived by you in favour of 500px.”

[cameraclicker]

I thought you were crazy, but you are not.  Here is what it says:
“The license granted to 500px includes the right to use your Content fully or partially for promotional reasons and to distribute and redistribute your Content to other parties, web-sites, applications, and other entities, provided such Content is attributed to you in accordance with the credits (i.e. username, profile picture, photo title, descriptions, tags, and other accompanying information) if any and as appropriate, all as submitted to 500px by you; ”

and:

“You represent and warrant that:

You are the owner of all rights, including all copy rights in and to all Content you submit to the site;
You have the full and complete right to enter into this agreement and to grant to 500px the rights in the Content herein granted, and that no further permissions are required from, nor payments required to be made to any other person in connection with the use by 500px of the Content as contemplated herein; and
The Content does not defame any person and does not infringe upon the copyright, moral rights, publicity rights, privacy rights or any other right of any person, or violate any law or judicial or governmental order.

You shall not have any right to terminate the permissions granted herein, nor to seek, obtain, or enforce any injunctive or other equitable relief against 500px, all of which such rights are hereby expressly and irrevocably waived by you in favour of 500px.”

[cameraclicker]

For a mall or main street studio that specializes in portraits, it makes some sense to hire someone who can get the subject to deliver a nice smile and pleasing pose, even if they know almost nothing about photography.  Set the camera to the shutter speed just below sync ( this works best for my studio strobes), aperture to f/8, and ISO to 100.  Then place the lamps to deliver the lighting ratio and power for the camera settings.  Now you just have to worry about focus and a smile.  At f/8, you probably have enough DOF to permit focus to be slightly off without major penalty.

You see exactly the same thing every year when the studios set up for Meet & Greet Santa.  The camera is locked down on a tripod of some sort, lighting is fixed, probably even focus is fixed.  Just have the child sit on Santa’s lap and press the button.  The camera is tethered to a computer and in a moment or two a print comes off the printer.  Very little expertise is required since someone else has worked out the details, and all the photos look the same.

[cameraclicker]

The EyeEm page seems to be strictly for phone photography.  At least, they want you do download a phone app to get started and I don’t see any way of uploading photos from a computer.  That suggests you may be using a phone for photography.  If you are serious about photography, you might like to get a device that was designed as a camera instead of as a phone with a camera built in as an afterthought.  Generally, cameras are easier to hold and are better at more kinds of photography.  But, if you are into phone photography, you might like this link.

http://www.shotwithmytrustyiphone.com/

You may also like this:

 

As far as the web page goes, the TOS says they can use your photos for their advertising.  It also says:

Indemnification

8.1 User shall indemnify EyeEm, its representatives, employees and agents and keep them indemnified against any losses, damages, expenses, costs, actions, claims, suits, litigation, causes of action, demands and liabilities which may be made against EyeEm by any third party for anything done or omitted in connection with (i) the User’s Community conduct and Content, (ii) any breach or violation of the User’s warranties or responsibility as set out in section 7, and (iii) the exercise or purported exercise of EyeEm’s rights hereunder.

8.2 This indemnification shall not cover claims by any third party which may occur because EyeEm has failed to delete or block Content without undue delay upon receipt of positive knowledge that such Content infringes the rights of any third party.

8.3 In cases of an aforementioned enforcement of claims by any third party, User will provide EyeEm with all available information that is needed for the examination of the claim and for the defence against it. User will provide such information immediately, truthfully and completely

 

So, this probably won’t be a problem if you are just posting trees and spiders.  It could become a problem if you start posting photos of people since they could potentially use one of your photos of a person, then make you pay damages if they are sued for using that person’s image in their ad.

[cameraclicker]

Ian, I have no idea how this:

https://www.eyeem.com/p/72461043

got 7 hearts!  With any luck, this is a link to lots of spider photos:

https://500px.com/search?q=spider&submit=Submit+Query&type=photos

How do you think yours compare?

Your rock:

https://www.eyeem.com/p/72421130

is out of focus!  Once again, 7 hearts!  For a photo where nothing is sharp!  By the way, that photo has motion blur.  You moved the camera while the shutter was open.

Your latest post (I think),

https://www.eyeem.com/p/73537056

is an interesting abstract still life.  It got 18 hearts, which suggests your social networking skills are better than your photography.  But, if you are just starting, keep exploring and studying.  You will improve.

Your selfie,

https://www.eyeem.com/p/73177936

is focused on the plant behind you, and the plant is acting as a halo!  There doesn’t seem to be any EXIF data associated with your photos.  If you are using a camera (as opposed to a phone), put it on a tripod, or on a shelf and use a remote shutter release or the self timer.  Prop a broom on a chair to provide a focus target, then turn off autofocus once focus is achieved.  Before the shutter releases, remove the broom and replace it with your face.  When photographing living things, most of the time you want the eyes or at least the nearest eye to be in focus.  There are exceptions.  Sometimes you may have someone hold their drink at arms length toward you, and you focus on the drink and blur their face for effect, but for a portrait, the eyes should be sharp even if nothing else is.

The definition of a faux here is someone who is charging for portraits/weddings/events but is clueless about creating reasonably good photos.  You are not a faux.  You are a beginner who is working on a lot of nature shots.

Pay attention to light.  Direction, brightness, softness, colour, shadow.  You are writing with light, use it to your advantage.

Pay attention to focus and to keeping the camera still.

Look at paintings and photographs to see what others have done.  Use the things you like, discard the rest.

Keep practicing.  Remove the photos you think are substandard.  Put up photos you are proud of.  Keep everything on your own machine so you can go back and see how far you have come and can re-edit some that are still worthy but were messed up by poor post processing.

And of course, have fun.

 

[cameraclicker]

Lots of squinting people.  Lots of racoon eyes.  Some white balance issues.  But if you can’t get a good shot, at least get a shot.  Preserve the memory.  That happened here and it got almost a million likes!  Probably the likes are for the story rather than the photos, though the photos confirm the text.  Lucky bride!  Two caring fathers and mothers.

True, weddings have a fairly slow wedding procession.  Everything else can move quite quickly and unexpectedly.  Everyone deviates from the script and there are a lot of moving parts.  Expressions often last less than a second.  Shutter lag is a pain!  Weddings are draining to shoot because there are many hours of continuously paying close attention to everything around you.  You try to anticipate and position yourself, then someone jumps in front of you at the critical instant.  It can be hard frustrating work.

I think wedding photographers and event photographers generally, would all admit to themselves if not to others that opportunities were missed regularly.  Most don’t show sub-standard photos and you can’t show the photo you didn’t take, so others don’t notice the missed shots.  They only see the successful shots and if you have enough of those then everyone is reasonably happy.

[cameraclicker]

The train tracks problem

http://bokeh.digitalrev.com/article/american-teen-killed-during-train-track-photoshoot-with-girlfriend

[cameraclicker]

Digital is just like film, except ISO can be set from photo to photo and with something like a 5D Mk III detail will be a lot sharper.  Shoot to raw files and you will have lots of dynamic range, or shoot to JPEG for ease of processing.  In a controlled “Studio” environment you can avoid any need for the extra data in a raw file.

In theory, at least, you don’t need the Youngnuo trigger system.  You can put a 580 in the hot shoe and set it to only pre-flash, to control the other flashes set to slave mode.  Then you will be able to use Canon’s ETTL, or manual settings.  This should work even if you are using softboxes since the light is bright enough to get through most of them.  Using a radio trigger will let you get the light off the hot shoe, giving 5 lights you can move around, instead of 4.   Possibly this is a bonus, or it just adds complexity.  ETTL/TTL can also add complexity since the camera and flashes will work out settings amongst themselves, which can lead to undesirable results and no understanding of why the results are as they are.  Start in manual mode, it will make your life easier.  Start with one subject, that will also make your life easier.  Get a plush toy or a used mannequin  to use as a subject while you are setting up and working out distances and power settings, they will stay in the same exact position and wait patiently all day while you take test shots.

Since digital usually uses ISO values higher than film, you can use the 5D Mk III at ISO 400 or ISO 800 and still get quite clean photos.  This will let you use less flash power from each unit, saving recharge time and battery life.  ISO 160 or 200 will give the cleanest photos but you will need more light.

Start with one light, say camera left at 1/2 power, at about 45° to the subject.  Take some test shots.  Add a second light at camera right, at 1/8th power also at about 45° and the same distance with the same kind of modifier.  Take more test shots.  Add a third light from behind.  Try out different power settings and distances.  Add a fourth behind on the other side.  Take more test shots.  Vary distance/angle/height/power/modifier/etc., one thing at a time and take a test shot.  Keep track of the change made and the effect.  Do this with each light.

Indoors, pay attention to wall and ceiling colour, distance to walls and ceiling, paint reflectivity, and surface smoothness.  In a small room with white walls and ceiling a single flash can light your subject pretty evenly from all directions because the light can bounce so much.  Umbrellas spill a lot more light than softboxes.  You can add grids to the face of a softbox to limit spill even more.  You can put a grid on the flash to limit spill even more for dramatic hard shadows.  You don’t say if you have stands and modifiers, or what those modifiers are, so this is all pretty general.

Light shining in all directions from a small source falls off at the square of the distance.  Focused light falls off less fast.  Light with a large modifier, close to your subject, will provide soft shadow and it falls off quickly.  For larger groups, move the lights further back for less softness but more evenness.

There are lots of Youtube videos about lighting.  Joe McNally’s books have lots of lighting diagrams with the resulting photos.  He shoots Nikon and sometimes uses a lot of lights.  All the concepts apply to Canon speedlites as well.

 

If you have specific questions, try to be as exact as possible, both about the space and all the equipment.   Someone will try to give a reasonable answer.

 

 

[cameraclicker]

The OP’s domain has expired.

In the last post, “Feel free to visit my website – tã vải“, a visit takes you to a cloth diaper store.

[cameraclicker]

Which three new commenting crazies?  And, how do you see subscription emails?  Eddie and CanonRox have no links to profile.  Does that mean they left already, or that their accounts are setup differently?  So many questions …

[cameraclicker]

so you think Eddie is really the robot guy?

That’s what Seth said, I think.  I haven’t put that much thought/research into it.  If Eddie is the “robot guy” it is a brilliant ploy.  If he is not, he has still helped “robot guy” by getting another link to his page posted here.

[cameraclicker]

What do I mean?

He posted a link to the FB page, which it seems Seth has concluded is his own page, in a seemingly incoherent post, above.  You and I cooperated by adding additional links.  When spiders scan this page they will pick up those links or increase ratings for those links if they are already known.

[cameraclicker]

Less and less incoherent.

Eddie has added his link to another page (this one) which might increase his Google rating slightly.  His bizarre text has had us say more than just “Yeah, not terrible, but not great either”, while moving on to the next page.

CanonRox has, apparently, a favourite porn actress.  Turns out she is on Model Mayhem:  http://www.modelmayhem.com/2716777 .  Or, right name, right state, and she will do nude work,  at least.  Her profile says she travels if all expenses are paid.  He could ask what she charges through her MM contact.

[cameraclicker]

His stuff SUCKS (WTF… https://www.facebook.com/BohemianRobotPhotography/photos/a.613382735373258.1073741890.495138150531051/1003647546346773/?type=1&theater )

Seems pretty reasonable as a “This is what the setup looked like” shot, except the softbox stand is not opened all the way out.   At least he/she/they practice!

There is a web page here:  http://www.bohemianrobot.com/

That leads to the question, should they be judged by their Facebook page if that is not their main page?

[cameraclicker]

Seems like a page where anyone who is insecure about their own work and unprofessional behavior can bash anyone they don’t even know. Sad there are perv  photographers like that who just don’t get it. Rather than sitting around creating fake profiles on Facebook and pretending to be a “Model” they should just give it up and move on! And since we seem to be naming names here,  I think https://www.facebook.com/BohemianRobotPhotography?fref=ts might be one of those to avoid!!

 

So you’re saying you are insecure about your own work and unprofessional behaviour?

[Author]

Posts