Would appreciate a critique.

[claustrophobic]

Hello everyone,

I’ve caught the bug. I don’t *think* I am a fauxtog. I hope it isn’t wishful thinking.

I am not a pro and have only taken pictures for friends or family. I realize practice will make practice. I feel I need to work on posing and getting people comfortable. Plus other things. I have been more serious about this for about 7 months. I have a T3i, a couple of kit lenses (18-55 and telephoto) and a 50mm 1.4.

So, what do you see in the crystal ball for me? Is there a future?

oh and here’s the  link .
Thanks much.

[Loke]

too early, only you know that..nobody can tell you if you are destined to be a photographer…..fauxtogs are only called that if they have not yet developed the skill and are charging for their services…therefore, you would not be a fauxtog but a beginner, but already I can see you are better than the fauxtogs out there.

From what I can see, not bad! maybe some minor focusing and lighting issues…..keep building your system as you get more comfortable with your camera….but learn your camera inside and out…..posing isn’t easy…I’m an event photographer mostly..doing photojournalism stuff so when I do portraits, sometimes I have to really think about posing.  I like your more candid shots, but that’s cause I’m biased towards that style…Look at mags, look at other photogs.. I try to avoid the “trends” as they become worn and corny after awhile…try different things and see what works…..Anyway, keep it up! I think you’re on the right path.

[JCFindley]

I am a landscape “fine art” photographer kind of guy (whatever “fine art photography” is….) and would rather gouge my eyes out with a spork than shoot people so I have no clue on that.

I will say that your bluebonnets are quite nice and the reflective water shot is as well. You seem to be on your way.

[claustrophobic]

Thank you both so much for being so encouraging.

@Loke, what focusing and lighting issues do you mean? Can you please give me an example and a way to fix it perhaps? Thnx.

[Loke]

It’s nothing to obvious ….It looks a little soft but I  can’t tell unless that’s what you were aiming for as a “romantic” effect  https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=313133372120913&set=pb.306505849450332.-2207520000.1365191096&type=3&theater

 

did you use partial/spot metering/manual focusing?

[claustrophobic]

Yes it did come out soft. I used auto focus using one point and then recomposed. The aperture was 1.4 so moving around softened it. I find manual focusing is too slow with kids. the romantic effect was unintentional but I rather liked the way came out. I used spot metering. I must admit that i don’t know much about metering and should probably do some research into it.

 

[Loke]

Ok, yeah I mean people prefer different settings, just play around with what makes you comfortable. Since I do street alot, I use zone focusing depending on how slow the autofocus is on the camera I’m using haha…nevertheless I think you have a good eye. Keep it up!

[JCFindley]

Your camera will have multiple focus points that you can pick and choose. If you work on it enough you will be able to pick the one you want subconsciously. (I never use manual focus myself but will use the focus point on or close to the subject.)

[JCFindley]

I also do some quality assurance work for an art site before images go to print and interestingly enough, right after I looked at your bluebonnets I reviewed an order for 25 different bluebonnet images going to a single buyer and most were large and expensive.

Anyway, in the art world it is hard to sell straight flowers. It isn’t that people don’t buy them but that so many people have high quality florals. To stand out there almost needs to be a little something extra. Bluebonnets along an old wooden fence, in front of a barn or with a few of those red or orange wildflowers yall have down there in the mix. Anything at all that will help your image stand out in the crowd.  Just something to think about if you ever decide to go that route.

[claustrophobic]

Thanks for all the input! I’m still not sure if I want to eventually make this my profession or just keep it going on the side for fun. A few friends have asked me to do their family portraits and I’ll probably take money if they offer, and if they don’t, that’s OK too.

Should I buy a better camera (5d m2) or practice some more with the one I have? My accountant friend has told me there’s a tax credit this year for buying equipment for personal businesses  and I’m really tempted.

[cameraclicker]

Businesses can depreciate their equipment on a schedule for the kind of equipment and deduct the amount from income when calculating tax.  The catch is, you have to have income.

[JCFindley]

The way I did it and would recommend is sticking with the camera you have until you find it limiting you in some way. Even then, for me equipment upgrades always get a cost benefit analysis. Will this new XXXX make me more than I am spending on it? If so, how long will that take? If It will and will do it within six months to a year, I buy it. If not, it is just on a “That would be nice to have” list.

I still shoot with a 5D classic as the MkII and MkIII simply will not increase revenue over what I have now to justify them, yet.

[claustrophobic]

I don’t know if I am ever going to be able to justify a new camera with a cost-benefit analysis. I contemplated going into this professionally but having seen my friends do it for a living, I’m not sure if I have it in me. I suck at networking and a big part of building a business is just that. But even for a semi professional stint, I feel people don’t take you seriously if you don’t have a professional camera.

So lets say I don’t buy a camera just yet. What lens should be next? I feel like I need a good wide angle lens. Should it be a prime or not?

thanks as always 🙂

[JCFindley]

If you want a really nice one for your camera, the 10-22 is a good one and WIDE!

I am going with a 20 prime myself as I need quality but also pretty cheap. (400 v 800 for the wide zoom)

[fstopper89]

I agree with the others; stick with shooting with the Rebel for now and if you make investments, invest in EF-mount lenses (those you can mount to both crop and full-frame bodies). Though they are pricey, a 70-200 f/2.8 is quite versatile; though, on a crop body, you may want a 24-70 f/2.8 or similar focal length range because of the focal length multiplier. Consider buying used as well. Most of my equipment is used and all works great. Just make sure the source is reputable if you go that route! Since you already have a 50mm prime I would suggest a zoom lens for your next one to upgrade from the kit lenses (which I find to be pretty basic and generally awful for portraits!) If you want another prime, try a 35mm f/2.0. I have one, it was only a few hundred bucks used, and is a pretty solid prime lens for a crop body.

Your camera will work fine unless you are doing a lot of low-light photography or anything indoors. My Rebel I can set to ISO 400 ish without serious noise, but beyond that, it’s quite undesirable. A 5DII handles high ISO much better.

[Author]

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