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I generally use 8 to 10 exposures when using the ‘HDR technique’
1) complete exposures
2) select all relevant exposures in MiniBridge
3) -> Open in HDR Pro
4) Click the drop down and click 32bit
5) Open Image
6) Save as TIFF
7) Open TIFF in ACR
Here is the chapel’s photography portfolio:
Selective coloring, they must love:
Of course they love vignetting:
it amazes me that people use selective coloring to “draw attention”.. I find it nicer to “brighten” the subject or “darken” everything else slightly. .. Sure as hell beats select coloring
I have a lot of bodies for the reason mentioned earlier.. I hate swapping lenses mid-shoot.. You have to figure the cost of losing a shot vs. making an investment.. Losing a shot can cost you way more if your client is a dick. 😀
1ds III is a mid 2007 camera
before you ask, the 1ds is an antiquated piece of shit that’s fixing to get replaced with a 1dx
I have a 1ds mark iii, 2 5d III’s, 5d II, and a 60D
17-40 is a fine lens.. little soft at the edges, but it’s really a good lens.. Notwithstanding it’s only 700 for L quality.. it’s not bad at all 😀
I use it for groups, or whatever else I find a use for it to use it for 😛
As far as transmitters, canon OE equipment, I don’t think I’ve had a misfire.. I’ve had pwizards and they’ve noticeably misfired quite frequently.
As far as reliability goes, they are definitely a way ahead of optical/IR.. Like I said, I’ve got STe3 and the 600’s and haven’t had a problem..
Well honestly, upgrade your 70-200 to IS. and really, I don’t see a reason to get much else.. However, you should work on selling off your 580 and getting 3 600 ex rt’s and a ste3 remote if your wanting to learn ocf .. 5d Mark II is compatible with HSS over radio via STe3 (i’ve done it.) you just can’t do grouping.. It’ll show a warning about the sync speed, but it still works. The STE3 doesn’t have af assist beam or optical/infrared just radio, but you can drop that all together and just use a 600 as a trigger in optical mode or radio if you wanted to keep your 580 and buy a 430 ex ii and a 600 and run them all optically (which works but nothing like radio) 😀 I think you’ve got a pretty good start at lenses, I’d worry more about other things and swap things out over time.. I think ocf is where you should look now.. flashguns / stands / modifiers.. Just my $20.00 input 😀
Sweet deal. 5d Mk II is an awesome camera.. Well, I concede to you then, apparently I was misinformed about what you had at some point.. What you have is a good deal then.. All you really need is a 85mm and you have a pretty useable range.. I’d personally sell off all the other lenses (aside from the 24-70) and buy a 70-200
24-70 and 70-200.. Once you’ve got both of those lenses, then work on gathering primes.. When speaking in terms of versatility you can’t really beat those 2 as a pair.. When getting primes, I’d suggest buying the 85mm f/1.2 mark II, then an 35mm.. As far as macro goes, I’d go for the 180mm 3.5 over the 100.. You can get closer without scaring off whatever it is you’re trying to shoot.
I have a copy of the 100mm f/2.8L, I’m a gear monkey.. I pretty much have everything except for the super primes (200mm f/2 and up)
The lens is sharp as a tack (100mm), it’s a good lens for both macro and portraits.. The 135 is probably one of the sharpest if not THE sharpest lens.. I really guess it all comes down to what you want..
When I am on a job, I carry a 16-35. 24-70, 70-200 and an 85mm.. Nice thing is, I have all 4 on a camera and all 4 are fast lenses.. So, I miss _nothing!_ and I don’t have to swap lenses every 10 to 15 minutes 😀 I know you do photo shoots for people in settings where you are in charge and have time to swap things out.. But for weddings and events where you don’t really have the luxury of time.. Zoom zooom.. 😀
as far as wildlife goes, just buy a 400mm f/5.6L or a 200mm f/2.8L and get a 2x extender. Kinda a slow lens (400mm) but how many people shoot birds at night *eh*
I feel ya, I’d like to get a 400mm f/2.8 strictly because I like shooting wildlife. I mean a 2x III on a 400 would be 800 @ 5.6 which isn’t bad at all.. Put that on a crop body an you get the equivalent of 1,280mm :D..
Side note: http://www.flickriver.com/lenses/canon/
Great site with a shittonne of images to perpetuate a lenses potential and greatness.
You’re forgetting, you have a crop body. So, essentially you have a 216mm lens that’s going to be really tight and not very versatile.. Great lens though, I have one.
I think you jumped the gun, primes are nice when you have a wide range of them. Personally, had I of been you, (whereas I realize I am not.) I would’ve got a 24mm or a 35mm to supplement your 50mm, or would’ve just bought a 24-70…. Personally, I’d have gotten the 24mm f/1.4 and had a somewhat equivalent to a 35mm ..
So yea, it’s a nice lens, but I don’t think you’ll be using it much.. I might be wrong.. 😮
This is just how I perceive things when it comes to lenses.. What you have now is too tight.. If you’re ever wanting to do anything aside from headshots without backing up into the next neighborhood, I’d get wide.. Not long. (whole lot of innuendos going on here! LOL)
last wedding I shot they used sand..
My definition of a ‘professional’ is someone who takes great care and consideration for the people they work for.. Someone who stands by their work and the quality of their work.. Someone who is honest, has integrity and has values. Someone who has spent a considerable amount of time amassing knowledge and experience based on their ‘profession. Someone who has spent time and money amassing the proper tools for the job.. Someone that is responsible for what they produce and is willing to accept responsibility for things that go wrong..
Under expose the sky by 2 stops and use fill flash.
As for how effective it is? um.. it’s pretty effective.. spot meter, aim for the sky, under expose and lock your exposure, take your shot.. your cameras ETTL or CLS will deal with exposing for your subject.. depending on how bright it is, you may need multiple flash guns .. I like to use 2 600’s and an st-e3 with 2 24×24 soft boxes, works like a charm.. Groups? Just add speed lights :D..
Btw, when skies are dull and plain with no detail; masking it out (if done correctly) and replacing it isn’t bad. You just have to be careful to not have blown highlights otherwise your small details will suffer with a lot of clipped / rough edges and will look like shit. refine edge is your friend as well.. photoshop isn’t a bad thing you know.. It’s bad when you suck, but that’s neither here nor there..
I find it odd that you are even asking this being that you are a working profession photographer. but anyway, enjoy.