November 14, 2012 at 3:56 pm #4563fstopper89Member
@soaringturkeys- yes the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS L version II was my first choice but way out of my price range. The Sigma was several hundred less. It does seem to perform quite well, I’ve been able to get some great sharpness with it, I’m just the problem at times I think. I’ve tried working with that focal length factor to keep my shutter speed up high enough, but I know it’s not something I think about all the time.
@Cameraclicker – Yeah all the lenses I invest in now are built for full frame (and also work on crop sensor) I am just keeping the two kit lenses I got with my Rebel for my non-professional stuff now like out and about /vacations, etc. Since they’re light and I don’t have to worry about damage. Also, my Sigma lens does have the two options. I usually keep it on OS-1 since I don’t do a lot of panning/moving shots when I use it.November 14, 2012 at 11:10 pm #4576SharraModerator
@browneyedgirl89 Other than your lenses focusing on what it thinks is in focus and throwing the rest of the image out of focus, your lenses might be guilty of front or rear focusing. A tool like Datacolor’s Spyder LensCal might be worth checking into to see if your lenses aren’t calibrated. Even some of my lenses weren’t calibrated for perfect autofocus, and even though it was minor, simple adjustments can be made by entering the required values into the camera, if it supports that. Nikon calls it AF Fine Tune, Canon calls it AF Microadjustment. There are other tools that do the same thing as LensCal (about $70 or so), but it might be worth considering if you want peace of mind about your lenses or to test any new ones you get.
While my D800 and a multitude of fast full-frame lenses serve as the gear I use for “professional” stuff, it’s the D300 with 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G DX VR II lens that I use for my walk-around camera. It has served me quite well for being 5 years old and no longer in production. 🙂November 14, 2012 at 11:45 pm #4579fstopper89Member
@Sharra: I always keep my autofocus setting on One Shot, unless I’m dealing with moving subjects, so that I can lock it on their eyes and then recompose. You’re right about calibration. However, according to another photographer I know, the crop bodies don’t work with lens calibration? I could be way off on that and misinterpreted him. I think things will get so much better when I get a 5D Mark II. Until then, I’ll try not to pull out my hair 🙂 And of course, work on fine-tuning my skills.November 15, 2012 at 5:59 am #4581
what bodies are you looking at? 7d’s have a habit of needing fine tuning. i knowmine did.November 15, 2012 at 11:15 am #4585cameraclickerMember
@soaringturkeys — I was skeptical about ISO 160, but here is the result of my quick test with a Canon: http://cameraclicker.com/Compare/MoreNoise2/Noise_5D_Mk_III.htm
I was surprised by the result! I think ISO 160 and ISO 200 look about the same. I think ISO 500 looks better than ISO 400!
Thanks for pointing that out. As time permits I will test my other bodies to see how they perform.November 15, 2012 at 11:31 pm #4609
yeah! I did this test on Video for 7d’s and the results were amazing a. 5dmkii looks like 100 is still the best value.November 16, 2012 at 12:10 am #4611
actually on second look. the 160 seems to have better sharpness on the reds
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