April 28, 2014 at 4:13 pm #18520fautox1977Member
Auto mode, Auto Focus with face detection, Auto ISO and easy mode monochrome. You need to start exploring more of your camera capabilities – and yours for that matter otherwise we are just giving critique to your camera and for the moment it does not seem to be doing a great job.
Now about your photos. You are not yet at a level to start charging anyone for your photography. Yes you can pursue a career in photography once you educate yourself on the subject. The light is all wrong and so is your shutter speeds. You can do so much with one lightsource (i.e. sun, window, lamp, etc) and a reflector.
Read this for start. Take some more practice shots and repost in about a week.April 28, 2014 at 4:41 pm #18521
You need to start exploring more of your camera capabilities – and yours for that matter otherwise we are just giving critique to your camera and for the moment it does not seem to be doing a great job.
Well, in the Features section of the page for the A1400 it says “A Smarter Camera Means Better Photos” That camera has a lot of scene modes but if it has manual controls they are probably a pain to use. I think Nesgran is correct and an upgrade of some sort, either to a better point & shoot, mirrorless or dSLR would help. Canon’s G series is small but offers more control, though the sensor is still small and even the G16 can not compete with a Rebel for image quality when ISO is increased. It does have manual controls and a hot shoe so it can control Speedlites and strobes. If you can get one, a 30D, 40D or 50D used, would get you into a dSLR at a reasonable cost. That said, a Rebel T3i is not as rugged but in terms of picture quality it is probably better than a 40D due to a newer sensor and better processor and software. The biggest pain with a Rebel is not having dual dials. In manual mode the dial by the shutter release changes shutter speed and you have to press a button on the back then use the same dial to control aperture. All my other bodies have dual dials so you rotate shutter speed with your index finger and aperture with your thumb. If you are shooting action in low light it can make a difference. For posed portraits, almost any dSLR should be more than adequate.July 7, 2014 at 6:48 pm #20123
I went away and practiced like I was advised to. Do you see any improvement?July 8, 2014 at 3:04 am #20137nesgranMember
Your link is broken, it only leads to my own flickrJuly 8, 2014 at 6:34 am #20142
It’s the wrong link. The link is generic, it leads to “sets” of the logged in account.July 8, 2014 at 9:50 am #20149
Sorry about that. The 1st 13 are new photos..
XXJuly 8, 2014 at 12:12 pm #20153
I like the seagull
I also like View out a Window, though it could use a little work
EXIF suggests the window is with your old camera.
I think most of the new ones have too much contrast, or are a little too dark, and over saturated. Your dandelion has a blue ring around it. Fur can be difficult and your cat has no detail in large areas of fur. Colours seem off.
Like Nesgran, I think you would be better off with a 30D, 40D, or similar Nikon model, D200 perhaps. Another option would be the mirrorless cameras which tend to be smaller. The Powershot A1400 is made to live in someone’s purse or pocket so they can snap a quick photo while out and about. It has a very small sensor so it will have some difficulty with dim lighting and there is no hot shoe so you can’t sync to external flash.July 8, 2014 at 6:59 pm #20167
All new ones are shot with my new camera. The cat was in the middle of a field, and I wasnt so had to zoom in quite a lot. How can I get more detail when shooting things that are in the distance?July 8, 2014 at 8:22 pm #20170
How can I get more detail when shooting things that are in the distance?
It’s all physics.
The longer your focal length, the more noticeable movement is, either subject movement or camera movement, particularly camera movement. Higher shutter speeds, image stabilization, and some means of mechanically stabilizing the camera, like a tripod, all help.
Never use digital zoom, only use optical zoom. Digital zoom reduces the photosites used for obtaining the image, which adds noise.
Expose correctly. If you under expose you get more saturation but shadows clip. If you over expose the image washes out and highlights clip.
A bigger, better sensor and higher quality lenses. I didn’t look it up for the A1400. I suspect the sensor size is similar to other point & shoot cameras. You might be able to fit 4 of those sensors on top of a single APS-C chip in a dSLR. I could be mistaken about this too, but I think you could probably place two APS-C sensors on top of a single full frame sensor. As sensors increase in size without a significant increase in pixel count, the photosites get bigger and that lets them deliver a better signal to noise ratio. If you take test photos with a number of cameras, you can see the quality improve as you move from the small sensor P&S cameras to the larger sensor ones like the G16 has, then on to APS-C sensors and then full frame. Older APS-C bodies like the 30D or 40D still produce better photos than a new P&S.July 8, 2014 at 9:56 pm #20174TrainwreckMember
I’m way late to this party so I’ll just try to limit some general comments to your latest question if I may?
Maestro Clicker’s suggestions are, as usual, all Golden. Might I further suggest that with your black kitty shot you are looking at not a distance issue but an exposure issue?
This is a tough shot with a rather large dynamic range. Flickr is reporting a General Imaging Co. x400 camera. I’m not familiar with this machine so I had a quick lookup to see what you might have at your disposal.
It is also reporting the metering mode as “Average” and an exposure mode of “Auto” for the black cat shot. Basically (in a nutshell) what this means is that your camera’s metering system automatically averaged the exposure value for the entire scene to middle gray and naturally underexposed the cat. Had you had your metering mode set to “Center Weighted Average” you would probably have gotten your cat a little closer to properly exposed. This metering setting (while still averaging the scene) will give metering priority to a smaller, more centered area of the frame.
The x400 is also capable of “Spot Metering”. And this is probably what I would have used in this case. This mode meters a relatively small circle (smaller even than Center Weighted) in the middle of the viewfinder. Usually somewhere in the hood of 5% of the frame. But, and this is a pretty big but, you will have to do some research/study/practice/experimenting to master this mode. Essentially it will attempt to render the spot you are metering (in this case the cat) to middle gray and you will need to be able to interpret how to set exposure compensation in accordance to the meter reading and the scene/subject you are shooting. In this case a typical example would be to spot meter the cat and set your exposure compensation to maybe -1.5-2 stops (remember, this is -1.5-2 stops below middle gray toward black) depending on how black you want the black cat and how much detail you want to preserve. Conversely, if you were shooting a white cat and spot metered it you would set EC to +1.5-2 stops (1.5-2 stops above middle gray toward white) depending on how white you wanted the cat and how much detail you wanted to preserve. This is going to work best if you shoot in manual.
I noticed on the specs that the x400 lists that it is capable of HDR- post processing only. No idea what this means but if the camera is capable of automatic exposure bracketing that is another option but requires blending the exposures in post. If the camera is incapable of AEB you can always do it manually.
One exposure for the general scene, one for the grass, one for the cat, (exposure values of -2/0/+2) and blend them. One advantage of this is that you can get a proper exposure for the grass and another for the cat. With a single metered frame there is going to be some tradeoffs. To correctly expose the cat the grass is going to be off a bit. But the question is what do you want properly exposed and the answer is going to be that you want the subject properly exposed.
So, if I haven’t confused the issue beyond all redemption I would happily suggest that you research your camera’s metering modes and exposure bracketing as something fun to do while you are sitting around swilling your favorite beverage! Then get a black target with some detail work on it and a white target with some detail work and practice getting the exposures happening. Then bring it back in here and show us what you got going on.
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