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Your opinion of vastly different is way different than mines.

I saw no difference in image quality which includes sharpness or micro contrast/clarity.

Sure, the first photo had less DOF but I can zoom in the 55-250 to the equiv of 400mm and blow out the background just as well.

Also my style does not revolve around completely blown out backgrounds.

I still like some details in the background hence why IS and dragging the shutter is so important for me……if I wanted completely blown out backgrounds I’d just go get another Canon 85 1.8. or zoom to 250mm @ F5.6.

Not all photographers shoot the same either. Like I said I started out shooting the whole blow the background out completely style but than I started to incorporate my background more with my subject. The blow te background style is the easiest in my opinion hence why theres so many photographers that shoot with fast primes and no additional lighting quipment. They just blow the background out and most of the time the photos look great BUT if a photographer learns to incorporate the background with the subject and leave some background detail in, in my opinion photos turn out more appealing to my eye but we come back to square one….what looks good to some looks bad to others….photography is subjective.

The only time that I like to completely blow out the background is if the background does not add to my subject in which case I zoom out to 135mm+ and use F5.6 or lower which for me, blows out the background completely.

About the quality of gear.

I already dropped my 55-250 on concrete and it’s still fine. A lens is only as strong as it’s weakest part (it’s glass).

I know a photographer that dropped his 24-70 off an 8 foot platform and it destroyed the glass even though it had a metal body.

So the question should be, what if any photographer drops his lens on a photoshoot with a client and the glass cracks? The answer is simple. Bring backups lenses.

I will be acquiring a Canon 18-200 F5.6 IS in the near future which will be my backup.

I have used my 55-250 in the rain and have had no problems with rain not to mention not all $1,000+ lenses are weather sealed.

I don’t use circular polarizers I see no point when I can bracket or bring down the sky in PP.

If the AF motor dies I’ll switch lenses or switch to a backup.

Also, just because you buy an expensive L lens DOES NOT mean that any of the above problems can happen to you.

I have heard and know of photograpgers that dropped their L glass on a photo shoot, the AF stops working on their USM motor, the glass breaks, or it rains and gets inside the lens or the body is not weather proof and the body goes down the crapper.

If anything I can have even more backups than someone that invests all of their money into 1 or 2 L lenses. I could afford 10 Canon standard lenses and have more backups than them if need be (I would bever do this I’m jyust making a point).

Expensive cars just like expensive lenses break as well and your lens will only be as strong as it;s weakest point (the glass).

Also, why would I get a 24-105F4L? Again, it’s only 1 stop faster than my 55-250 AND it’s zoom range is not even comparable and the IS is not as good (3 stop vs 4 stop I believe) and my 18-55 can go wider.

The 17-40L is also a waste in my opinion. Why get that when I can get the Tamron 17-50 2.8 for $350 brand new?

I have used FF body’s by the way. I have used the 1DX, 5Dc, 5Dmkii, and the Nikon D3. The difference between even FF and crop body at the lower isos that I use them at is neglible.

You put too much emphasis on the gear and not enough emphasis on the lighting, technique, posing, and PP skills in my opinion.

Also believe it or not I have yet to meet a single pro that uses ETTR when shooting portraiture.

I still stand by what I had to say about it. I have tested it out and have not seen a difference but the risk of blowing highlights.

Me and you obviously disagree on many points I think that it’s best that we stop here.

All the best to you and your photography/business.