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As cameraclicker has pointed out Strobist is the best place to start learning. Go through the lighting 101 section first.
If you have a 580 then try doing this and then read the rest of my post if you want to.
Put the 580 on the camera and set to ETTL. Set camera to manual and spot metering (or equivalent to spot metering if, like me, you don’t have it Boooooo :o( )
Set your shutter speed to 1/200th second which is usually Canons maximum flash to shutter sync speed. Set ISO to 100. Point the camera at that lovely blue sky above your model/subjects head and set the aperture until the meter shows that the sky is under exposed by 1-2 stops (for now). Then point camera at subject and fire away. If the sky still looks too bright then under expose if more (i.e increase the aperture). If it really is a bright day and you have a high f/ number then that is what will limit the flash you will see lighting the subject so you need to be quite close sometimes.
The other option is to use the high speed sync (HSS) option on the 580ex. Basically you can then increase the shutter speed above the 1/200th sync speed to reduce the exposure of the sky. The aperture can then be reduced which means you see more flash output working in the image.
(Shutter affects ambient, aperture affects flash and ambient, it’s a case of balncing the 2. ISO also affects the flash seen in the image).
This is all using the 580 on camera with ETTL but learning manual is also good fun and satisfying when you get it right, see below for more.
For any of you who already know this and more, I do understand there are a lot a varying factors when using these techniques but it’s a good starting point if you’re not sure what you are doing.
The one thing that bugs me about a lot of the answers to these kinds of strobist queries is that people usually seem to suggest that you buy the most expensive flashes and triggers. YOU DON’T NEED THIS STUFF. I have 2 Canon 430 exII’s. The power difference between these and the 580s is such a small amount that it doesn’t justify the extra £200 here in the UK. (430s about £195 for best deal, 580s about £395 best deal). I bought 2 Canon as I’m a brand whore but I bought them YEARS apart. I have also bought 2 used Centon FG105D flash units branded for use with Nikon because they have built in optical slaves, i.e, they fire when they see another flash go off. I bought them off ebay and spent a grand total of £50 for the 2 units and they are just as good as the Canons but feel less well built. So I have 4 great flashes in my kit for £450 instead of spending more than that on 1 600ex. Yongnuo as Nesgran said, might also be an option for you.
You don’t ‘NEED’ ETTL. If you are just starting out, ETTL can be a no go as it will cost more money in triggers. Don’t buy infa red, it’s not reliable. Don’t buy PWs, too expensive. There are a load of budget wireless controllers out there, ebay sell quite a few but I wanted a proper brand sold here in the UK. I started with £120 for one transmitter and receiver Seculine Twinlink T2D. They stopped making them before I had chance to buy more receivers so have changed to the Hahnel Combi TF system. Totally manual, cheap and TOTALLY RELIABLE. I spent £50 for one transmitter and receiver and additional receivers are £40 each. I only need 2 for my Canon flashes as I use the optical slaves on my Centons. The optical slaves have only failed me once in practice.
Anyway the point of my post is to get you to understand that you don’t need to spend $2000 on a strobist set up. Obviously ETTL, Pocket Wizards and 600ex units have some major advantages over cheaper models but if you learn your kit you can do a lot of things for a lot less money. I’m in no way disagreeing with anyone who has suggested expensive gear, I’m sure it’s fantastic, but if iliketag can’t afford all the expensive stuff then they have somewhere else to start with the advice I have given. Start with 1 flash unit, whether it’s Yongnuo or Canon, and try to get it of camera ASAP. If you do go for a different/older branded flash, you will need to make sure that the voltage wont fry your camera if placed onto the top hoptshoe. This is why it is sometimes safer to start with something specifically made for specific SLR manufacturer.
Hope some of that helps